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HOW TO FIGURE OUT AND ARRANGE 

PATTERN WORK 

FOR WEAVING COLORED FABRICS 
EXPLAINED 



ILLUSTRATED 



:TOGETHER WITH: 



OTHER SIMPLE RULES AND 
CALCULATIONS PERTAINING 
TO WEAVING DEPARTMENTS 



BYJ.G. J^ING, SUPERINTENDENT 
ELMIRA COTTON MILLS COMPANY 
BURLINGTON, NORTH CAROL NA 



Price $1.25 



19 15 

The Washb u r h 

C HARLOTTE. 



-x^ 



Copyrighted, 1915, by 

J. G. KING 
Burlington, N. C. 



/,^ 



MH 14 1916 

©CI.A420364 



PEEF ACE 



Being a practical mill man, and having come in con- 
tact with more or less superintendents, boss weavers and 
boss beamers that are not familiar with the methods of 
figuring out and arranging pattern work to best advan- 
tage — ^which it is quite important to know in order to 
handle a colored goods mill successfully — the idea was 
suggested to me, by one that wanted to learn, that I get 
up a plain and simple book on the subject, together with 
a few other simple rules and calculations that have proven 
quite useful to everyone connected with weaving depart- 
ments ; and being aware of the fact that this part of the 
work was so little understood by so many that ought to 
know, and also in view of the fact that there are scores 
of second hands, loom fixers, beamer hands, etc., who are 
in line for promotion who would like to have the informa- 
tion as contained in this book, I have made special effort 
to get the book up in the plainest and simplest manner 
possible, avoiding all signs and abbreviations, etc. ; or, in 
other words, I have put the feed way down on the lowest 
shelf, so that anyone with only a slight knowledge of 
arithmetic can understand and master it as well as those 
that happen to be better informed. 

I have no knowledge of any such book ever being 
published on this subject, as herein illustrated and 
explained, and it is the writer's opinion that it will event- 
ually be appreciated as it becomes known, especially so 
among those who have never had the apportunity of 
much schooling or any special textile training. 

Eespectfully, 

J. G. KING. 




J. a. KING 



INTRODUCTORY 



While this book is designed to teach 
anyone how to work out patterns and 
arrange them to best advantage in all 
classes of colored work, checks, dress pat- 
terns, stripes, etc., in order to make the 
illustrations plain, each pattern is illus- 
trated in a stripe ; it being understood by all 
that are likely to be interested that the pat- 
tern in the filling of a piece of goods has 
nothing to do with the figuring out and 
arranging of the warp ends. 

The patterns as shown here are not 
designed with the view of showing any 
specially attractive effects, but they were 
selected because each pattern works out dif- 
ferently; and you will find that practically 
every question that is likely to come up in 
working out and arranging a pattern, is 
brought out and explained in some of the 
designs as shown in this book. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER ONE 

A very simple 2-colored pattern worked out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER TWO 

Another 2-colored pattern worked out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER THREE 

A 2-colored pattern worked out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER FOUR 

A 2-colored pattern worked out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER FIVE 

A 4-colored pattern worked out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER SIX 

A 4-colored pattern, with cord work, worked out and illus- 
trated. 

CHAPTER SEVEN 
A 4-colored pattern, with cord ivork and fancy stripe, worked 
out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER EIGHT 
A 2-colored pattern of Bed-Ticking worked out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER NINE 

A 2-colored pattern, with cord work of ply yarn, worked out 
and explained. 

CHAPTER TEN 
How to get out Blanket Sheets, worked out and illustrated. 

CHAPTER ELEVEN 

How to find the Percentage of Sizing on a warp. 

To find out how much the cloth will Take-up in Width in 
Weaving. 

To find the Take-up in warp in length. 

To find the Number of Ends Required in a warp for a given 
width of goods. 

CHAPTER TWELVE 

How to figure the Weight of a piece of goods before it is 
woven, plain weave. 

How to figure the Weight of a piece of goods with cord work. 

How to figure the weight of goods after they are woven, by 
pounds, and by ounces. 

CHAPTER THIRTEEN 

How to find the weight of a warp. 

How to find the length, and how to find the number of the 
yarn. 

CHAPTER FOURTEEN 

Short rules on figuring Percentage of Production. 

How to find Loom Constant. 

How to find Cloth Constant. 

How to find Average Speeds of Looms running different 
speeds. 

(6) 



CHAPTER ONE 



, We will take for our first pattern to be worked out 
a very simple one, as follows : 

8 Hack 
8 white 

16 Total ends in pattern 

In this warp we will say we will have 1400 ends in 
addition to the selvage, and we will have 32 ends for sel- 
vage — 16 ends on each side of the cloth; therefore, our 
total number of ends in the warp will be 1432. 

Now in working out the pattern we will simply use 
the 1400 ends and add the other 32 ends, we propose to 
use for selvage later. 

Our pattern should read as follows : 

8 ends of black 
8 ends of white 

16 

Now the above represents one complete pattern and 
we find we have 16 ends to each complete pattern, and 
in order to find out how much of each color is required 
in the warp, we must first find out how many complete 
patterns there will be in the full width of the cloth ; there- 
fore, as we are to have 1400 ends in the full width of the 
cloth besides the selvage, we must first divide 1400 by 16, 
which will give us the total number of complete patterns, 
thus: 

16)1400(87 complete patterns 
128 



120 
112 



ends over 
(7) 



Now we find we have 87 complete patterns and 8 ends 
over. 

By referring to our pattern we find we call for 8 ends 
of black to each pattern, and as we have 87 patterns we 
must multiply our 87 by 8 in order to find out how many 
ends of black are required in the warp, thus : 

87 



696 ends of bl-ck required 

For the white, we get that the same way : 
87 



696 ends of white required 

Now we take the 696 ends of black and the 696 ends 
of white and add them together, thus : 

696 black 
696 white 



1392 



Here, we find the total ends of black and white only 
amount to 1392, and it should be 1400, 

Now we refer back to where we worked out the pat- 
tern on page seven and we find we have 8 ends over. This 
S ends added to the 1392 makes the 1400. Thus : 

1392 



1400 



Now the next question is, which color should these 8 
ends be added on to? One might suppose that as the 
pattern calls for just as much white as it does black, that 
we should divide it and add 4 ends on each color; but 
that would not be right. By referring to cut below this 
will possibly be more clearly understood. 



(8) 




►ONE complete: PATTE.RN 

THIS SPACE. RLPRLSLNTS THE 67 COMPLETE- PATTERNS 



CUT N9 I 



^/ 



This cut Number 1 is supposed to represent the cloth 
in the pattern we are working on, and you will notice 
that we have 8 of black next to the selvage on both sides ; 
therefore, we have one more black stripe in the total width 
of the cloth than we have of the white, and as we have 8 
ends of black to each stripe we will add the 8 ends we 
have over onto the black, making it read as follows : 

704 ends of black 
696 ends of white 



1400 

32 ends of white for selvage 



1432 



In this case it is important that we add the 8 ends 
on the black so as to make both sides of the cloth look 
alike, as shown in cut Number 1 ; and in order to make it 
clear to the beamer hand or slasher man, when he com- 
mences to lay in this warp, it should be written as 

follows : 

(9) 



End here 8 black Total Ends 

8 white 704 black 

— 728 white, selvage included 

16 



1432 
87 patterns. Selvage 16 ends on both sides. 

The point marked "End here" shows the beamer or 
slasher man just how the last pattern should come out 
when he lays in the warp, and if it does not come out as 
marked it proves that he has made a mistake in laying 
in, or that there is a mistake in the number of ends in the 
warp. 



(10) 



CHAPTER TWO 



Now we will take up another pattern similar to the 
first one, as follows : 

16 black 
16 white 

32 ends in pattern 

In this pattern we will use 1400 ends besides the sel- 
vage, just as we did before. But, in order to find out 
how many complete patterns there will be, we must divide 
the 1400 ends by 32, as that is the number of ends to each 
complete pattern in this warp. 

32)1400(43 complete patterns 
128 



120 
96 

24 ends over. 

Now we have 16 ends of black to the pattern, and as 
we have 43 complete patterns we must multiply the 43 by 
16 to find out the number of ends of black required : 

43 
16 



258 
43 



688 ends of black 

And as we have 16 ends of white also to the pattern we 
find the required ends of white the same way: 

43 
16 



258 
43 



688 ends of white 
(11) 



Now we add together the 688 ends of black and the 688 
ends of white, as follow^s: 

688 black 
688 white 



1376 



Here we find we have only 1376 ends, when we should 
have 1400. By referring back to where we worked out 
this pattern, we find we had 2^ ends over, and by adding 
the 24 ends to the 1376, thus : 

1376 
24 

1400 

we find we have our correct number of ends. 

Now the next question is, which color should we add 
the 24 ends onto? In this case, we would not want to 
add it all on the black as we did in the first pattern, but 
in order to make both sides of the cloth look alike we 
should add 16 ends on the black and 8 ends on the white. 
The 8 ends added on the white should be included in the 
selvage, making 20 of white on each side for this pattern, 
which would read as follows, and the cloth would show 
up on both sides like Cut Number 2: 

End here 16 black Total Ends 

16 white 704 black 



32 



728 white, selvage included 



1482 
43 patterns. 20 selvage on both sides. 



(12) 





ONE. COMPLEITE. PATTE.R.M 

THIS 5PAC^ RE.PRLSt:NTS THE 43 COf^PLLTE- PATTERNS 



CUT N?2 



MS) 



CHAPTER THREE 



Suppose we take another pattern with 1400 ends, 
same as the first two we have just gone over, but have 
this one read as follows : 

20 black 
20 white 

40 ends in pattern 

We will work this one out just the same way as the first 
two, as follows : 

40)1400(35 complete patterns 
120 



200 
200 
and nothing over 



We have 20 of black, also 20 of white, to each pat- 
tern, so we proceed to find the required number of ends 
of each color as before : 



35 
20 




700 ends of 


black 


35 
20 




700 ends of 


white 


700 ends of 
700 ends of 


black 
white 



1400 

In this case, our total number of ends comes out just 
right, but if we let our pattern go through, without any 
change, our cloth will show up like Cut Number 3, which 
you will admit, I am sure, will not show up to best advan- 
tage, as both sides are not alike. 

(14) 






U-ONE COMPLETE. PATTERN 

THIS SPACE REPRE.5LNTS THE. 35 COMPLETE PATTERNS 



CUT N2 3 



& 



CUT N54- 



(15) 



This pattern, however, should be written as follows, 
and in that case it would show up on both sides alike, as 
shown in Cut Number 4 : 

Start with 10 20 black Total Ends 



End with 10 / 20 white 700 black 

— 732 white, selvage included 
40 



1432 
35 patterns. 16 ends selvage on both sides. 

The above marking means : Start the first pattern, 
when laying the warp in on the beamer or slasher, with 
10 ends of black instead of 20, and the last pattern will 
come out with 10 ends of black on the other side, as 
shown in Cut Number 4. 



(16) 



CHAPTER FOUR 



We will .take the following pattern : 

16 black 
2 white 
4 black 
2 white 

24 ends in one pattern 

Here we have 24 ends to each pattern. Considering our 
warp to have 1400 ends, besides the selvage, as before, we 
of course follow the same rule in working out the pattern : 

24)1400(58 complete patterns 
120 



200 
192 



ends over 



Now we have 20 ends of black to the pattern, so we 
multiply the 58 by 20 to find out how much black is 
required : 

58 
20 



1160 ends of black required. 

We have 4 ends of white to the pattern, so we multiply 
the 58 by 4 to see how much white is required: 



58 
4 



232 ends of white required 

Adding the 1160 ends of black to the 232 ends of white, 

we have 

1160 
232 



1392 

and by adding the 8 ends we have over, to the 1392, we 
find we have the correct number of ends — 1400; or, in 
other words, it proves our example to be correct. 

(17) 



Now we must find out the right place to put these 8 
ends we have over, and also know how it will show up in 
the cloth next to the selvage. 

In reading over the pattern, we find we commence at 
the top and read 16 of black and at the bottom of the pat- 
tern is 2 of white, while of course every time you read 
the pattern over you start at the top 16 black and wind up 
at the 2 of white at the bottom. Well, now, we will just 
suppose that we have read the pattern over 58 times, 
which is the number of complete patterns we have in this 
warp. Now you will understand we have 58 patterns 
and 8 ends over, so when we start over the pattern the 
59th time we are counting the 8 ends we have over, and 
when we get as much as 8 ends of black on the 59th pat- 
tern we have used up all our 1400 ends, so you see the 8 
ends we have over will come on the black; therefore our 
warp, when laid in on the beamer or slasher, would show 
up 16 black next to selvage on one side and 8 of black 
next to selvage on other side, as shown in Cut Number 5. 




-ONE COMPLETE PATTERN 

THIS SPACE. REPRESENTS THE 5a COMPLETE PATTERNS 



CUT N05 



(18) 




CUT N9G 



While the difference in appearance in this particular 
pattern on each side, is not very noticeable, and would 
make but little difference in the general appearance of 
the goods, yet it is just as easy to have both sides alike, 
which always looks better, so we will arrange the pattern 
accordingly and the cloth will show up on both sides as 
shown in Cut Number 6, and the pattern should be 
marked as follows : 



Start with 12 


16 black 


Total Ends 


End with 12 


/ 2 white 


1168 black 




4 black 


264 white, selvage included 




2 white 





1432 



24 



58 complete patterns. 16 ends selvage on both sides. 



(19) 



CHAPTER FIVE 



Now we will take a pattern having 4 colors, as 
follows : 



This much towards 
the 37th pattei'n . 



Ends here 



l4 blue 




2 white 




2 red 




2 white 




2 red 




2 white 


36 complete patterns 


4 black 


width of the cloth 


2 white 




2 red 




2 white 




2 red 




2 white 





in the 



38 total ends in pattern. 

In working out this pattern we will follow the same 
rule and methods as before, using 1400 ends in the warp 
in addition to the selvage : 

38)1400(36 complete patterns 
114 



260 

228 

32 ends over 

In working out a pattern with several colors, it is well 
to make a memorandum of the number of ends required 
of each color in one pattern, as it proves convenient in 
getting out the total number of ends of each color, and at 
the same time helps to avoid errors. So we will make 
our memorandum as follows, which is the number of ends 
required in one pattern of each color: 

14 ends of blue 
12 ends of white 

8 ends of red 

4 ends of black 

38 



(20) 



This, you see, adds up 38, which shows that it balances 
with the 38 ends called for in the pattern (see page 20) . 

Referring back to our example on page 20 where we 
divided the 1400 by 38, we find we have 36 complete pat- 
terns, so to find the amount of each color required we 
proceed as before. 

In our memorandum we find we have 14 ends of blue 
to the pattern, so we multiply the 36 by 14 to find the 
total number of ends of blue required, etc. : 





36 






14 


blue 




144 






36 






504 


total ends of blue 




36 






12 


white 




72 






36 






432 


total ends of white 


36 




36 


8 red 




4 black 



288 total ends of red 144 total ends of black 

Now we add all our totals together, as follows : 

504 blue 
432 white 
288 red 
144 black 



1368 



Now we have only 1368 ends accounted for out of the 
1400, which we are supposed to have. By adding the 32 
ends we have over, as shown in our example, we find it 
totals up 1400, as follows: 



1368 
32 

1400 
(21) 



Here the question comes up again, what should we do 
with the 32 ends? Now get this fixed in your mind 
thoroughly, that the 36 complete patterns are all included 
in the 1368 ends, and the 32 ends we have over is simply 
that many more ends belonging to our warp and is that 
much on to the 37th pattern. So by referring back to 
our pattern on page 20, counting on down from the first 
of the pattern to the point indicated at 2 of red, you will 
see that it takes up the 32 ends which we have over, and 
by counting from this point back to the top, and making 
notes of the number of ends of each color, you will find 
out where to add the 32 ends, as follows : Starting at 
the 2 of red, as marked, we have — 

6 ends of red 
8 ends of white 
4 ends of black 
14 ends of blue 

32 

Now going back to page 21, where we got out our total 
number of ends of each color, we find, by adding the 
above to it, we have the following: 

14 added to 504 gives us 518 ends of blue 

8 added to 432 gives us 440 ends of white 

6 added to 288 gives us 294 ends of red 

4 added to 144 gives us 148 ends of black 

With the pattern arranged, as we now have it on page 20, 
our cloth would show up on both sides like Cut Number 
7 below. 



(22) 




-ONE. COMPLE.TE- PATTERN 

THIS SPACE REPRESENTS THE 3<o COMPLETE PATTERNS 



CUT N2 7 



1 u 




O 


a!. 


< 


UJ 

> 


:3 


O 


LiJ 




to 


ui 




UQ 


t>0 


IZ 


Q 


V~lJ 


z 




liJ 


{Ni 




fO 


vS 



The above cut would pass, of course, but it would not be 
arranged to best advantage. Therefore it should be 
arranged as follows, and then both sides of the cloth 
would show up like Cut Number 8 : 



Start with 8 




14 blue 


End with 8 


/ 


2 white 






2 red 






2 white 






2 red 






2 white 






4 black 






2 white 






2 red 






2 white 






2 red 






2 white 



38 

Now by referring back to our pattern on page 20, you 
will find we only lack the last 6 ends of the pattern of 

(23) 



having enough to complete the last pattern (or, in other 
words, the 37th pattern), as we had 36 complete patterns 
and 32 ends over. But, in order to arrange this pattern 
to best advantage, we will take 8 of the 32 ends we pro- 
pose to use for selvage, and use these 8 ends towards 
completing our last or 37th pattern. 

By referring again to the pattern on page 20 you will 
note below the point indicated, that we requira 4 ends of 
white and 2 ends of red to complete the 37th pattern. 
So here, we use 6 of the 8 ends we have taken off of the 
selvage, and we have 2 ends left over, which we will use 
on the blue, and our pattern will be as follows : 



14 blue 




2 white 




2 red 




2 white 


37 complete patterns 


2 red 


in the width of the 


2 white 


cloth and the 2 ends 


4 black 


of blue over as 


2 white 


shown at bottom. 


2 red 




2 white 




2 red 




2 white 




2 blue ove 


r 



Now you must understand that the 14 ends of blue at the 
top of pattern would come first, and would be next to sel- 
vage on one side of the cloth, with the 2 ends of blue at 
the bottom of pattern coming last, when laying in the 
warp, and would be next to selvage on the other side. 
So we would have 14 of blue on one side of the cloth and 
2 on the other. By adding the 14 ends and 2 ends 
together we have 16 ends, so we will use only 8 ends of 
blue in the first pattern, and we will have the other 8 to 
go on the other side, making the cloth look alike on both 
sides, as shown in Cut Number 8, and our pattern should 
be as follows : 



(24) 



start with 8 




14 blue 


Total Ends 


End with 8 


„/ 


2 white 
2 red 


520 blue 






468 white, selvage ii 






2 white 


296 red 






2 red 


148 black 


- 




2 white 








4 blue 


1432 






2 white 








2 red 








2 white 








2 red 








2 white 





38 



37 complete patterns. 12 ends selvage on both sides. 



^ 







iii 



■J 



CUT N9 (5 



Take the pattern we have just worked out, and work 
it out for a warp of 1600 ends instead of 1400 besides the 
selvage, and you will find we get about the same results, 
but arrive at it in a little different manner: 



(25) 



14 


blue 


2 


white 


2 


red 


2 


white 


2 


red 


2 


white 


4 


blue 


2 


white 


2 


red 


2 


white 


2 


red 


2 


white 



38 

Now in using a warp of 1600 ends, we of course divide the 
1600 by 38 to find out how many complete patterns we 
have: 

38)1600(42 complete patterns 
152 



80 
76 

4 ends over 

Now the fellow who does not know exactly how these 
4 extra ends should be worked in on a pattern, would say 
in this case — well, just add that on to the selvage — and 
of course would make no mark on his pattern indicating 
how it should commence or end up when laying in the 
warp ; consequently the cloth would show up on both sides 
just about like Cut Number 7, except it would have 2 
ends more of white and 2 more of red coming next to sel- 
vage on one side, and the last 2 of white would also be 
thrown into the selvage, and he would have 16 of white 
for selvage on one side and 22 on the other, which would 
not show up well in the finished piece of goods. 

The right way to handle this pattern, however, would 
be as follows : Add the U ends over onto the blue, and as 
you understand, these 4 ends of blue would come on the 
side of the warp you finish up on when laying it in. So 
you would have the first 14 ends of blue as called for in 
the pattern on the side you commence on and the 4 ends 

(26) 



over on the other side. Now we will just say we will 
take 4 ends out of the first pattern where we commence 
and place them over on the other side with the other ^ 
ends and make our cloth show up with 10 of blue in first 
pattern next to selvage instead of 14, and 8 ends on the 
other side coming next to the selvage, and the pattern 
should be written as follows : 

Start with 10 14 blue 

End with 8/2 white 

2 red 

2 white 

2 red 

2 white 

4 black 

2 white 

2 red 

2 white 

2 red 

2 white 

38 
42 complete patterns. 16 ends selvage on both sides. 

Now we will work out the total ends as before, as 
follows : 

42 

14 blue ends to pattern 



168 

42 

588 



Here we have 588 ends of blue in the 42 patterns, and as 
we are to add the 4 ends we have over on the blue our 
total ends will be as follows: 



(27) 



Selvage 

536 



42 
12 


white 


84 
42 




504 
32 


ends 



42 
8 red 


42 
4 black 


336 


168 


Total Ends 


592 blue 
536 white, 
336 red 
168 black 


selvage included 



1632 



With this pattern arranged, as shown on page 27, the 
cloth would show up the same as in Cut Number 8, except 
there would be 10 ends of blue on first side instead of 8. 



(28) 



CHAPTER SIX 



In this chapter we will take up a pattern having some 
corded work, which you will note brings about a slight 
change in the way we find the number of patterns con- 
tained in the warp. We will take the following pattern : 

16 blue 

4 white 
16 blue 
2 white 
2 black 
cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 
.2 black 
2 white 
4 red 
2 white 
2 black 
cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 
2 black 
2 white 

64 
4 less extra ends used to each pattern 

60 

Now it must be understood that all the patterns we 
have been working out, up to this one, have been in the 
plain construction of 2 ends to each dent in the reed, and 
in working out any pattern that is irregular in the reed, 
such as cords, or extra doublings, it must be figured on 
the same basis as though there were 2 ends to each dent, 
in order to keep the same width of warp in the reed; 
therefore, in this case, as the 2 cords in each pattern use 
4 ends to the dent, we have 4 extra ends to the pattern (2 
extra ends at each cord) , so we subtract the 4 extra ends 
from the total ends :n the pattern, which leaves 60 (as 
above) ; and this is the figure we must use to divide the 
total number of ends in the warp by to find out the 
required number of patterns. Counting 1400 ends to 
the warp, we have the following : 

(29) 



60)1400(23 complete patterns 
120 



200 
180 

20 ends over 

Now the way this pattern comes out leaves our selvage ir 
rather bad shape. So we will have to do some changing 
around to get both sides to look alike. You will under- 
stand, of course, that the 20 ends over are that many ends 
on towards the 24th pattern; that being the case, of 
course, we will start back at the top of the pattern to add 
on and we find our pattern first calls for 16 of blue, and 
next 4 of white, so we would add 16 ends on to the blue 
and 4 on to the white, which takes up the 20 ends we 
have over the 23 patterns. Now if we should add these 
ends on this pattern, as. just suggested, our pattern should 
be written as follows, and the selvage would show up like 
Cut Number 9, page 32: 



16 blue 
End 4 white 
16 blue 

2 white 

2 black 
cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 

2 black 

2 white 

4 red 

2 white 

2 black 
cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 

2 black 

2 white 

. 64 
23 complete patterns 



Total Ends 
752 blue 
280 white 
184 black 

92 red 
184 white for 



cord 



1492 

32 white for selvage. 



1524 



16 ends selvage on first side 
20 ends selvage on other side 



Note — The last four ends of white where the pattern ends 
come next to selvage on last side, making 20 ends of white for 
selvage on that side. 



(30) 



We will first get out our memorandum of colors for 
each pattern, as follows : 

32 ends of blue 

12 ends of white 

8 ends of black 

4 ends of red 

8 ends of white for cord 

64 

Referring back to page 30, we find we have 23 com- 
plete patterns, so we find the number of ends required of 
each color as follows : 



32 


blue 


12 white 8 


black 




4 red 8 white for cord 


23 




23 23 








23 23 


96 


36 184 


92 184 


64 




24 










736 


276 








Total Ends 














736 blue 














276 white 














184 black 














92 red 














184 white 


for 


cord 








20 ends over 


to 


add (See Page 30) 



1492 

Here we find we have 1492 ends, when we are supposed 
to have only 1400 ; but you will note that we have 4 extra 
•ends to the pattern in this warp (see page 29) on account 
of the corded work, and as we have 23 complete patterns 
we will multiply the 23 by 4 and we find we have 92 extra 
ends in the warp on account of the cords. 

Now, if we deduct the 92 ends from the 1492, it leaves 
1400, and as 1400 ends is the number of ends our pattern 
is based on, it proves that our example is correct. 

On page 30 we show that there are 16 ends of the 20 
to be added onto the 736 of blue and 4 onto the 276 of 
white besides the 32 ends for selvage, which makes our 
total number of ends as shown on page 30. 

(31) 




1^1 'r^-« i„jms, 1^1^ Sv-i"" v?.i 



[1:5 f C-ji 






1:^ 



\l 




OHZ. COMPLETE PATTERN 
THIS .space: RLPR.ESENT5 THE 23 COMPLETE PATTERNS 



CUT N°3 



h 


/ 

ui 


UJ 


V 


\-> 


O 


< 


^ 


-^ 


Q 


i-j 


/. 


UI 


lU 




o 


Q 


INl 


Z 


LOJ 


LiJ 


3: 
1- 


^ 



||j^*^»"--5j 



V 



■4 ? 



ill^ 



^fe ^^S.t^ll'^^ 



J^li 



CUT N? lO 



V. 




O 


.J' 


< 

> 


J 


_i 


_1 


UJ 


CU 


in 


Q 




L. 


hi 


u 




cQ 


- 



(32) 



This pattern as arranged on page 30, which would 
show up on the selvages as in Cut Number 9, is not cor- 
rect, but should be arranged as follows and would then 
show up as -in Cut Number 10, which is correct : 

Start with 8 
End with 8 / 



cord 



16 blue 




4 white 




16 blue 




2 white 




2 black 




4 white one 


eye (one dent) 


2 black 




2 white 




4 red 




2 white 




2 black 




4 white one 


eye (one dent) 


2 black 




2 white 





cord 



64 

Now you will notice that in having the pattern arranged 
as above we lay only 8 ends of blue for the first stripe 
instead of 16, as called for on page 30, and the 8 ends we 
have left out here to start with we carry on over to the 
other side, and when we finish up we find we have 8 ends 
of blue towards the second 16 of blue called for, which 
makes our pattern end up as marked above, and the cloth 
would show up as in Cut Number 10, which, I am sure, 
you will agree is an improvement over the selvages in 
Cut Number 9. In this case, however, the number of 
ends of each color would be the same as shown on page 
30. 



(33) 



CHAPTER SEVEN 



In this chapter we will have still another example in 
corded work, which, together with the one we have just 
explained, should enable anyone to handle anything 
along this line, as the general principles in working out 
all such patterns are included in these two. As you will 
understand, the number of heddles required to weave a 
piece of goods has nothing to do with the number of ends 
required in the warp. The number of heddles required 
for producing a piece of goods depends entirely on the 
kind of weave called for, etc. This part of the work, 
however, would of course come under the head of design- 
ing, while the object of this book is to teach you how to 
figure out the patterns whether you understand anything 
about designing or not. 



12 


black 






X— 4 


red 


one end 


each eye 


X— 4 


red 


one end 


each eye 


12 


black 






2 


white 






4 


blue 






X— 2 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 






4 


blue 






X— 3 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 






4 


blue 






X— 4 


white 


one eye 




End with 3 4 


blue 






2 white 






4 


blue 






X— 3 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 






4 


blue 






X— 2 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 







98 
8 extra ends in each pattern 

90 
Note — All places marked "x" mean, reeded in one dent. 

(34) 



In working out this pattern, as shown on page 34, we 
will suppose our warp is to have 1600 ends in addition 
to the 32 ends for selvage. 

We find the total number of ends in this pattern is 
98. We also find that we have 8 extra ends used in the 
pattern on account of doublings in the reed, and as we 
are to work out the pattern on a basis of only 2 ends to 
each dent in the reed, in order to maintain a given width 
in the reed, regardless of the doublings in the reed, we 
simply subtract the 8 extra ends from the 98 in the pat- 
tern and use the 90 to work out our pattern by, as fol- 
lows : 

90)1600(17 complete patterns in the warp 
90 

700 
630 

70 ends over 

Here we find we have 17 complete patterns and 70 ends 
on towards the 18th pattern, so we begin at the top of our 
pattern now and count the ends on down until we count 
70, and we will find where the 18th pattern would end. 
Well, now we find it ends with 3 ends of blue at the point 
indicated (page 34) . Now if we should let this pattern 
go at that, the selvages of the cloth when woven would 
show up like Cut Number 11. 



(35) 







ONE COMPLLTE PATTERN | 

THIS SPACE. REPRESENTS THE I 7 COMPLETE.! PATTE RnS-qi 



CUT N2|| 





CUT N? 12 



(36) 



In this pattern you will note from Cut Number 11 
that the selvages show up quite different, while in Cut 
Number 12 both selvages are exactly alike ; therefore, we 
will mark off the pattern showing the starting and stop- 
ping points as shown in Cut Number 12, which is correct, 
and should be written as follows : 





12 black 












X — 4 red 


one 


end 


each 


eye 




X — 4 red 


one 


end 


each 


eye 




12 black 












2 white 










Start here 


4 blue 












X — 2 white 


one 


eye 








4 blue 












2 white 












4 blue 












X — 3 white 


one 


eye 








4 blue 












2 white 












4 blue 












X — 4 white 


one 


eye 








4 blue 












2 white 












4 blue 












X — 3 white 


one 


eye 








4 blue 












2 white 












4 blue 












X — 2 white 


one 


eye 






End here 


4 blue 
2 white 











Now in writing this pattern off for the slasher man or 
the beamer hand, as the case might be, as shown above, 
instead of commencing to lay in the warp at 12 black — 
the first of the pattern — he would commence on the first 4 
of blue as indicated, and when he finished up his last pat- 
tern would end on the last 4 of blue as indicated. 

Please bear in mind that when we go to write oft' a 
pattern we cannot tell how it will end up until we have 
worked it out up to the point where we have carried this 

(37) 



one, and that is the reason we sometimes have to mark 
our starting point down below the beginning of the pat- 
tern. However, when we once find out how the pattern 
will end up, and we get it laid off to best advantage, as 
we have now done in this case, we can re-write the pat- 
tern, as shown below, which will be exactly the same 
thing and possibly will be a more desirable arrangement 
for the slasher or beamer hand : 



m. 


4 


blue 




X- 


- 2 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 






4 


blue 




X— 


- 3 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 






4 


blue 




X- 


- 4 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 






4 


blue 




X- 


- 3 


white 


one eye 




4 


blue 






2 


white 






4 


blue 




X- 


- 2 


white 


one eye 


End here 


4 


blue 






2 white 






12 black 




X- 


- 4 


red 


one end one eye 


X— 


- 4 


red 


one end one eye 




12 


black 






2 


white 






98 








8 


extra 


ends in each pat- 




— 


tern for cord, etc. 




90 







In this case the beamer or slasher man, when he would 
start to lay in the warp, would commence on the 4 of 
blue at first of pattern and his last pattern would end 
up as indicated. 

(38) 



Now we proceed to work out this pattern as follows : 
Referring to pattern as written on page 38 — 

90)1600(17 complete patterns 
90 

700 
630 

70 ends over 

By referring to the pattern on page 38 we find, by counting 
down from first of pattern to point indicated where the 
last or 18th pattern should end, that we have only 62 ends 
called for, while we have 70 ends over that we are sup- 
posed to take care of. But you will note, as we have the 
pattern arranged, both sides are exactly alike; so in this 
case we will just add the other 8 ends onto the selvage, 
making the pattern read 20 white on each side, and the 
total number of ends would be as follows. First we 
will see how many ends of each color is called for to a pat- 
tern; starting at the top of pattern and picking out the 
blue first, we find : 

40 ends of blue 

14 ends of white (cord work) 

12 ends of white (plain) 

24 ends of black 

8 ends of red 

98 

We find this adds up 98, which agrees with the total ends 
in pattern and proves it is correct. Now by referring 
to the above we find we have 17 complete patterns in 
our warp; so we find the total number of ends of each 
color, just as we have done in all the preceding patterns, 
as follows: 

40 blue 14 white (cord) 12 white (plain) 24 black 8 red 
17 17 17 17 17 

136 



280 
40 


98 
14 


84 
12 


168 
24 


680 


238 


204 
(39) 


408 



Now we total it all up as follows 



680 


blue 












238 


white 


(for 


cord ) 








204 


white 


(plain) 








408 


black 












136 


red 












70 


the 


ends 


we have 


over 


(see 


Page 39) 



1736 



Now we find our total number of ends amounts to 1736, 
when our pattern is figured out on page 39 on a basis of 
the warp having only 1600 ends. 

1736 
1600 

136 extra ends required on account of cord, etc. 

By subtracting the 1600 from 1736 we find it leaves a dif- 
ference of 136. This 136 ends are extra ends required in 
this warp on account of the corded work — that is, the 
extra doublings in the reed — and in order to prove our 
example and see if we have the right number of ends 
added on account of the corded work, we simply multiply 
the number of complete patterns we have in the warp by 
the number of extra ends we have to each pattern, and if 
it agrees with the extra ends called for, as shown above, 
it proves our example is correct, thus : 

In this warp we have 17 complete patterns, and we 
have 8 extra ends to each pattern on account of corded 
work and extra doublings in the reed; so our example 
would be as follows : 

17 
8 

136 

Here we find 17 multiplied by 8 gives us 186, which 
proves our work to be correct. 

Now in order to add the 70 ends we have over (on 
page 39) and get the right number of ends on each color, 

(40) 



we will begin at the top of the pattern (as shown on page 
38) and count down to point indicated where the last pat- 
tern should end; taking the blue first, we have: 

40 ends of blue 
14 ends of white (cord work) 
8 ends of white (plain) 

62 

8 the ends we propose to add 
— on selvage 

70 

Here we have taken care of the 70 ends we have over, as 
shown in our example on page 39 ; so now, in order to get 
the total number of ends of each color, we add the ends as 
shown above to the amount called for on page 39, and we 
have : 

40 ends added to 680 totals 

14 ends added to 238 totals 

8 ends added to 204 totals 

62 

8 ends added to selvage 
70 1736 

Here we have a total of 1736 ends, which agrees with our 
total number of ends as shown on page 40 — this being 
another check on our work showing it is correct (as the 
32 ends for selvage are not included in the above). 
Now when this pattern goes to the beamer or slasher man 
it should be written out as follows: 



720 ends of blue 




252 ends of white 


(for cord) 


212 ends of white 


(plain) 


408 ends of black 




186 ends of red 




8 





(41) 



4 blue 








X — 2 white one eye 








4 blue 








2 white 








4 blue 








X — 3 white one eye 








4 blue 








2 white 








4 blue 








X — 4 white one eye 




Total Ends 


4 blue 


720 


blue 




2 white 


252 


white 


(corded work) 


4 blue 


252 


white 


(plain) selvage incld. 


X — 3 white one eye 


408 


black 




4 blue 
2 white 
4 blue 


136 


red 




1768 






X — 2 white one eye 








End here 4 blue 








2 white 








12 black 








X — 4 red one end 


one 


eye 




X — 4 red one end 


one 


eye 




12 black 








2 white 









98 
17 complete patterns. Selvage 20 ends on each side. 



(42) 



CHAPTER EIGHT 



All that has been written so far in this book regard- 
ing the importance of having both selvages of the cloth 
look as near alike as possible, has reference to all kinds of 
fancy and staple gingham, dress goods, plaids, domets, 
etc. ; but when it comes to bed-ticking, counterpanes, car- 
pets, etc., it is equally as important that we have both 
selvages so arranged that when the goods are sewed 
together along the selvages, a complete pattern will be 
formed, and in order to illustrate this we will take the 
following pattern in ticking: 











36 blue 










6 white 










6 blue 


End 


here 


with 


2- 


— 6 white 








6 blue 










6 white 










6 blue 










6 white 



78 

We will suppose this warp is to have 2000 ends, in addi- 
tion to the selvage, and we will have 40 ends for selvage 
— 20 on each side. So we will work out the pattern in 
the usual way, as follows: 

78)2000(25 complete patterns 
156 

440 
390 

50 ends over 

Now we find we will have 25 complete patterns in the 
entire width of the cloth and 50 ends towards the 26th 
pattern, which would cause the pattern to end up at 
point indicated, and the cloth would show up on the sel- 
vage as shown in Cut Number 13. 

(43) 




THIS SPACE. REPRESENTS THt 25 COMPLLTt PATTEIRNS 



C UT N5 14 



(44) 



You will note if this pattern should finish up like 
Cut Number 13, when the two selvages are sewed to- 
gether you would have a badly disfigured pattern at the 
seam, as yo.u would have only one small stripe of blue and 
white separating two of the broad stripes of blue ; there- 
fore it will be necessary to make a slight change in the 
pattern in order to make the pattern work out nearer 
even. In this case this pattern should be written as 
follows : 





88 blue 




6 white 




6 blue 




6 white 




6 blue 




6 white 




6 blue 


End here 


6 white 




80 


80)2000(25 complete patterns 


160 




400 




400 






nothing over 



By writing the pattern, as above, we simply use 38 of 
blue in the pattern instead of 36, which is a very slight 
change and does not change the appearance of the pat- 
tern in the cloth enough to be noticed, and at the same 
time it gives us 80 ends to each pattern instead of 78, 
which makes our warp divide up into even patterns and 
our cloth would show up like Cut Number 14, which is 
correct for this kind of goods. However, both selvages 
of this pattern could be made to look exactly alike by 
taking half of the 38 of blue in first pattern and placing it 
on the other side, and when the cloth is sewed together 
the results would be the same and the pattern would be 
written as follows : 



(45) 



start with 18 




38 blue 


Total Ends 


End with 20 


_/ 


6 white 


1400 blue 






6 blue 


600 white 






6 white 
6 blue 
6 white 


2000 

40 ends for selvage 






6 blue 


2040 






6 white 





80 
25 complete patterns, even. Selvage, 20 ends on both sides. 

The above pattern would be worked out as follows : 

56 ends of blue to one pattern 
24 ends of white to one pattern 

80 

Referring to page 45 we find we have 25 complete pat- 
terns with no ends over; therefore, we have nothing to 
add on. 

56 blue 24 white 

25 25 

280 120 

112 48 

1400 600 



(46) 



CHAPTER NINE 



In working- out a pattern that has corded work of a 
ply yarn, where you have only one thread of the ply yarn 
to a dent in the reed, when we are working on a basis of 
2 ends to each dent, it should be worked as follows, taking 
the following pattern : 



End here 


14 black 


one dent 


1 cord (ply yarn) 




4 black 


one dent 


1 cord (ply yarn) 




20 




2 



22 

Here we have 2 cords in the pattern using only one 
end to the dent. So in cases of this kind we add just as 
many ends to the total ends in the pattern as there are 
ends left out in the reed on account of the cord, which in 
this case is 2 ends to the pattern (this you will note works 
just the reverse when using cords composed of single 
yarn) ; therefore we add 2 to the 20 and use the figure 
22 to divide by to find the correct number of patterns in 
the warp. Suppose we are working on a basis of 1400 
ends to the warp, we would have the following example : 

22)1400(63 complete patterns 
132 

80 
66 

14 ends over 



(47) 



Black 18 ends to the pattern Cord 2 ends to the pattern 
63 patterns 63 

54 126 total ends 

108 

1134 

14 the 14 ends over 



1148 ends black required 

Here we have added the 14 ends over on to the black, 
which would make the pattern read as follows, and the 
cloth would be exactly alike on both sides: 

End here 14 black Total Ends 



one dent 1 cord (ply yarn) 1148 black 

4 black 126 cord (ply yarn) 

one dent 1 cord (ply yarn) 

_ total 1274 

20 126 equals 2 multiplied 

2 by 63 

— 1400 
22 

63 complete patterns. Selvage 16 on both sides. 

Here, you will note, our total number of ends required is 
only 1274, while we were working the pattern on a basis 
of 1400 ends; you will note also that by multiplying the 
2 ends we added to each pattern by 63 — the number of 
complete patterns — we get 126. This amount, added to 
the 1274, totals 1400, which proves our example correct. 



(48) 



CHAPTER TEN 



BLANKET SHEETS 

Quite often it becomes necessary to get out a lot of 
samples of pattern work, especially so with the mills that 
make more or less of gingham, dress goods, etc. ; and it is 
most always customary to get them out in what is called 
"blanket sheets." While this is rather expensive and 
lots of trouble, yet it enables the mills to get out quite a 
variety of samples in a comparatively short time, with- 
out having much yarn and goods tied up in a lot of new 
styles before they know what styles will be most accept- 
able to the trade. 

In making blanket sheets it is simply a matter of 
making 2 or more different styles of patterns, side by 
side in the reed, all beamed on the same beam, and is 
simply a piece of cloth made up of different patterns, the 
full width of the piece being equally divided, according 
to the number of different patterns being made. 

If your pattern happens to be small and medium-sized 
checks, it is usually the practice to make each pattern 
about 7 inches wide in the reed ; therefore you can easily 
make 4 such patterns at a time, giving each pattern a 
space of 7 inches in the reed, making your warp spread 
28 inches in the reed. If you should happen to have very 
large checks or stripes, it would possibly be necessary to 
make each pattern about 9 1/3 inches wide in the reed. 
This being the case, you would be able to weave only 3 
patterns at a time, in a reed space of 28 inches. 

Before deciding on the width of your blanket sheets, 
however, it is well to first find out what ividths can be 
handled successfully in the finishing process. Don't 
under any circumstances, make your blanket sheets any 
wider than can be handled satisfactorily in the finishing 
plant. I have seen good nice samples ruined simply by 

(49) 



making them wider than the regular run of cloth in the 
finishing machines, making it necessary to readjust the 
guides, etc., on every machine, and before the few yards 
of samples get through, more or less of it is damaged all 
on account of making the goods a little too wide, in order 
to save a little time in the weaving. 

We will suppose for an illustration that we want to 
make the following 4 patterns into a blanket sheet form 
for samples, and we want each pattern to cover a space 
of 7 inches in the reed, making the total width in the 
reed 28 inches besides the selvage. We will suppose we 
are going to use a 27-dent reed — that is, 27 dents in the 
reed to the inch — and we will draw our warp in the reed 
2 ends to each dent. 

First we must find out how many ends our entire 
width of blanket will contain — that is, all fou7' of the pat- 
terns. We have a 27-dent reed and we propose to spread 
our warp 28 inches, using 2 ends to each dent; therefore 
we have the following, using 27 dents to the inch and 2 
ends to each dent : 

27 
2 

54 ends per inch in reed 

Here we have 54 ends to each inch of reed space we pro- 
pose to use, and as we are to have a total width of 28 
inches in the reed we have 54 times 28, as follows, for the 
total number of ends : 

54 
28 



432 
108 



1512 total ends required besides selvage 

Now, as we are to have 4 different patterns in the width 
of this cloth, we divide the 1512 — total ends required for 
total width — by 4, thus : 

(50) 



4)1512(378 total ends required for each pattern 
12 



31 

2a 



32 
32 



In working out the total number of ends required for the 
blanket we must work out each different pattern sepa- 
rately, using the 378 ends required for each. We will 
take the following 4 patterns: 



No. 1 
End 6 blue 
■ 6 white 



12 



No. 2 
End 4 10 blue 

4 

4 
4 

22 



white 

blue 

white 



31 patterns 17 patterns 

Total ends 378 Total ends 378 



No. 3 
16 blue 



white 

blue 

white 



End 4 1 6 blue 
2 white 
2 
2 
2 
2 

50 



blue 

white 

blue 

white 



7 patterns 
Total ends 378 



No. 4 
8 blue 
8 white 
4 blue 
8 white 
8 blue 
4 white 
4 blue 
4 white 
4 blue 
8 white 
4 blue 
4 white 
4 blue 
End 2 4 white 



76 

4 patterns 
Total ends 378 



7 inches 
< > 

31 patterns 



7 inches 
< > 

17 patterns 



7 inches 
< ^> 

7 patterns 



7 inches 
< -> 

4 patterns 



The 28 inches reed space used 



Here we find, by dividing the 378 by 12— the total 
ends in pattern No. 1 — we have: 

No. 1 . No. 2 

12)378(31 complete patterns 22)378(17 complete patterns 



36 

18 
12 



22 

158 
154 



6 ends over 



4 ends over 



(51) 



No. 3 No. 4 

50)378(7 complete patterns 76)378(4 complete patterns 
350 304 

28 ends over 74 ends over 

Now we find the total number of ends of each color 
required for each different pattern. 

Number 1 — We find we call for 6 ends of blue and 6 
ends of white to the pattern, so we refer to Number 1, on 
preceding page, and we find we have 31 complete patterns 
and 6 ends over. So we multiply the 31 by 6 to find the 
ends of blue required: 

31 31 

6 6 

186 blue required 186 white required 

The 6 ends we have over we add on to the blue, making 
the total ends required for Number 1 as follows : 

192 blue 
186 white 

378 

Number 2 calls for 14 ends of blue to the pattern and 
8 ends of white, and as we have 17 complete patterns in 
Number 2 and 4 ends over we multiply the 17 by 14: 

17 17 

14 8 

68 136 white required 

17 

238 blue required 

The 4 ends we have over we add on the blue, making total 
ends for Number 2 as follows : 

242 blue 
136 white 

378 

(52) 



Number 3 calls for 40 ends of blue and 10 ends of white 
for each pattern, and as we have 7 complete patterns in 
Number 3 we multiply the 40 by 7: 

40 - 10 

7 7 

280 blue required 70 white required 

In this pattern we have 28 ends over, so we count down 
from the top of the pattern until we count 28 and we find 
it ends on the second 16 of blue with only 4 ends, so we 
start at point indicated commencing with the 4 and count 
back to the top, and we find we require 24 ends for the 
blue and 4 for the white, which takes care of the 28 ends 
we have to add on. So we add 24 on to the blue and 4 on 
to the white, making total ends of each color for this pat- 
tern as follows : 

280 70 

24 4 

304 blue 74 white 

Total ends required 
304 blue 
74 white 

378 

Number 4 — We find we require 36 of blue and 40 of 
white to each pattern, and as we have only 4 complete pat- 
terns in Number 4, we multiply the 36 by 4 to find the 
blue required, and 40 by 4 to find the white required. 

36 40 

4 4 

144 blue 160 white 

In this pattern we have 74 ends over, and by counting 
down from the top to the point indicated we find our last 
pattern ends with 2 ends at the last 4 of white. So by 
counting down from top of pattern to point indicated, 
we find we require 36 of blue and 38 of white, which we 

(53) 



add on to each color, making the total ends required for 
each color in this pattern as follows: 

144 160 

36 38 

180 blue required 198 white required 

180 blue 
198 white 

378 

Now we add all the blue called for in each of the four 
patterns and all the white, and we find the total ends of 
each color required for the blanket as follows : 

No. 1— Blue 192 white 186 

No. 2— Blue 242 white 136 

No. 3— Blue 304 white 74 

No. 4— Blue 180 white 198 

Total blue 918 white 594 

Here we find we have total ends required — 

918 blue 
594 white 



1512 



Our total ends required, you see, agrees with the total 
ends we started out to work the blanket from on page 50, 
which proves our examples all correct. 

This covers the principles involved in working out 
any blanket sheets, and this, together with the other in- 
formation contained in this book, should enable anyone 
to work out any kind of pattern proposition that is liable 
to come up. 



(54) 



CHAPTER ELEVEN 



Note — We have used the decimal method of expressing all 
fractions in these examples, for the reason that they are so much 
more easily understood and easier to handle in calculations. For 
example: .1 equals i/iO (one tenth) ; .6 equals 6/iO (six tenths) ; 
.07 equals 7/100 (seven hundredths) ; .24 equals 24/iOO (twenty- 
four hundredths) .073 equals 73/1000 (seventy-three 
thousandths) ; .814 equals 814-1000 (eight hundred and fourteen 
thousandths), etc. In other words, where there is only one figure 
to the right of the decimal point, it expresses tenths; two figures 
to the right of the decimal point expresses hundredths; three fig- 
ures to the right of the decimal point expresses thousandths, etc. 



While the principal object of this book is to teach 
those desirous of learning, how to figure out all kinds of 
pattern work — what is generally termed "figuring out 
patterns" for gingham, fancy dress goods, plaids, ticking, 
etc., — it will be interesting to some, no doubt, to know 
how to find the width of a piece of goods, number of ends 
required to weave it, and about what the goods wiF 
weigh — that is, the number of yards per pound. So I 
will give a few simple rules which will enable anyone 
with a very slight knowledge of mathematics to under- 
stand. 

In the first place it is well to bear in mind that there 
is no rule that will always work out exact in cases of 
this kind, as it is next to impossible to hit just right on 
a few things that have to be estimated in figuring the 
width and weight of the cloth — such as the exact take- 
up, the exact percentage of size on the warp, etc. — and 
in making such calculations it is necessary to use reason- 
able judgment in allowing for the take-up in weaving in 
width and length; also in the amount of size on the warp, 
keeping in mind the fact that there is no sizing on the 
filling. 

(55) 



TO FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF SIZING ON A WARP 

Take one average warp, weigh it before it is sized and 
then weigh the mme warp after it is sized and you will get 
a fair average. Thus, if the warp weighs 100 pounds 
before it is sized and the same warp weighs 107 pounds 
afterwards, you have: 

107 weight after being s;zed 
100 weight before being sized 

7 
100 

Weight of warp before 



being sized > 100)700(7 per cent size on warp 

700 

TO FIND HOW MUCH THE CLOTH WILL TAKE UP IN WIDTH 

If convenient go to a loom weaving on a similar piece 
of goods and see how wide it is in the reed and then 
measure it down on the cloth roller. First see that the 
warp has about the right tension, as you can very easily 
vary the width of the cloth one-half inch or more by 
tightening or loosening up on the beam weights. 

On ordinary gingham, etc., with about 28-inch reed 
space, the goods will come off the loom about 26 14 to 27 
inches wide. If the goods should be of a rather open 
construction it will pull down to as low as 26 inches, 
while if it is closely woven it will average about 27 inches. 
On wider goods, the difference, of course, will be in pro- 
portion to the width. 

TO FIND THE TAKE-UP IN LENGTH 

This will vary according to the picks per inch being 
put in, also according to the number of yarn of the filling 
used and the number of warp yarn and the nature of the 
weave — that is, whether it is a plain weave or a three or 
four harness twill, etc. — so it is a good idea to get a 
similar piece of cloth just like it comes off the loom (that 
is, before it is finished) , cut off 10 inches in length, warp 
way, pull out a few warp ends, straighten them out good 
and see how much longer the warp threads are than the 

(55) 



piece of cloth; if the cloth is 10 inches long and the warp 
ends measure out 10 1/2 inches long, you have a 5 per cent, 
take-up, thus : 



Subtracter 


10.5 warp ends 
iO.O cloth 




.5 
100 


Divisor 


100)500(5 per cent take-up 
500 



In order to simplify this rule, we simply use the decimal 
point thus, 10.5, which is the same as 101/^. 

Rule: In finding the percentage of take-up by this rule sub- 
tract the length in inches of the cloth from the length of the warp 
ends in inches, multiply this difference by 100 and then divide by 
length of cloth in inches, using same number of figures for divi- 
sor as are used in subtracting. 

TO FIND NUMBER OF ENDS REQUIRED FOR GIVEN WIDTH 

Suppose you wanted to weave a piece of goods 28 
inches wide in the reed and you were going to use a 29- 
dent reed (that is, 29 dents to the inch) and you wanted 
to have 2 ends to each dent; find the number of ends 
required : 

29 dent reed 
2 ends in each dent 

58 ends in one inch 
28 inches wide in reed 

464 
116 

1624 ends required besides the selvage 

(This cloth would come off the loom about one inch 
or one and a half inches less in width, according to the 
yarn used, picks put in, weight on loom beam, etc.) 

(57) 



CHAPTER TWELVE 



HOW TO FIGURE THE WEIGHT OF GOODS BEFORE BEING 

WOVEN 

On pages 56 and 57 we have explained how to find the 
percentage of sizing and take-up. Now when you go to 
work in the sizing and take-up, work it in as follows : 
First, supposing you have 5 per cent, sizing on your warp 
and the take-up amounts to 10 per cent. ; add them both 
together, making it 15 per cent, size and take-up. But 
instead of multiplying by 15 make it 1.15, placing the 
decimal point before the 15 as shown. 

Take the pattern as we have worked out in Chapter 
One, we have a total of 1432 ends : 

1432 Total ends in warp 
1.15 Size and take-up 



1160 
1432 
1432 

1646.80 This is the dividend for warp only. 
Note — Bring down your decimal point. 

Now for a divisor for the warp only, multiply 840 by the 
number of warp yarn you propose to use. We will sup- 
pose we are going to use for this warp No. 26's : 

840 

26 number of warp yarn 



5040 
-1680 

21840 Divisor for warp only 

PIVIDEND 



Divisoft-,- 21840) 1%46.80 (.075 weight of warp in one yard of 
1528.80 cloth 



118.000 
109.200 



(58) 



Now we have gotten out the weight of the warp for 
one yard of cloth, so we next get out the weight of filling 
for one yard. To determine this, . however, we must 
know what number of filling we propose to use, the num- 
ber of pic'ks to the inch, and the width of warp in the 
reed. 

REED: We will use a 26-dent reed, 2 threads to each 
dent, which will give us 52 threads to the inch in the 
reed. 

PICKS: We will have 54 picks to the inch in this 
goods and we will use No. 24's yarn for filling. 

In order to be exact, regarding the width in the reed, 
we should deduct just half of the number of warp ends 
we propose to use for selvage (as the selvage is drawn 
4 ends to the dent) from total ends in warp, when figur- 
ing for the width in the reed, but as that little difference 
amounts to practically nothing in figuring the weight, we 
will take the total number of ends to figure from. 

Now we divide the 1432 by 52, which is the number of 
warp ends to each inch of reed space ; this, of course, vill 
give us the width in inches in the reed. Thus: 

52)1432(27.54 inches wide in the reed 
104 



392 
364 

280 
260 

200 
208 



Now, as we are to have 54 picks of filling to the inch, 
in order to find the length of filling used to one inch of 
cloth we multiply the 27.54 by 54, thus : 



(59) 



27.54 width in reed 
54 picks per inch 



110 16 
1377 



Divid'd for filling (yards) 1487.16 inches of filling used in one inch 

of cloth 

or 
Yards of filling used in one 
yard of cloth 

Now the 1487.16 yards above is our dividend for the 
filling, and to get the divisor for the filling we multiply 
the number of filling we propose to use by 840, thus : 

840 
24 No. of filling yarn 



3360 
1680 



20160 Divisor 

QIVIPEND 

DivjsoR^^ 20160) 1^487.16 (.073 of a pound weight of filling to 
1411 20 one yard of cloth 



75 960 
60 480 

15 480 



Now to find the yards per pound of this goods, we add 
together the 73/1000 of a pound (weight of filling to one 
yard of cloth) to the 75/1000 of a pound (weight of warp 
to one yard of cloth) and divide 1000 by that product, 
thus: 



73 filling 
75 warp 



148)1000(6.77 yards per pound. Weight of goods 
888 

1120 
1016 

1040 
1016 

(60) 



Note — In working out the weight of a piece of goods you 
should not fail to carry your decimal point on through as 
outlined. It requires several small calculations to figure out what 
a piece of goods will weigh, yet you will note that this, like all the 
other examples in this book, is worked down to the plain and sim- 
ple rules of addition, subtraction, multiplication and division, and 
if you can do that, you will have no trouble to master everything in 
this book. 

CORDED GOODS 

Take the pattern as shown and explained in Chapter 
Six, which has 184 ends for cord work. The cord in this 
pattern should be run on a separate beam from the rest 
of the warp, as it will not take-up in weaving like the 
other part of the warp. In fact, this cord will lay prac- 
tically straight in the cloth. Therefore, there will be no 
take-up to allow for these 184 ends. We will figure the 
weight of this piece of goods, taking the same construc- 
tion, number of warp and filling, etc., as we used in the 
preceding example, which would make the goods weigh 
the same as the piece of goods illustrated in Chapter One, 
as shown in example on page 60, but for the additional 
ends required on account of the doubling for cord work 
which will cause this piece of goods to run a little heavier, 
as you will note by the following examples : 

Total ends in warp 1524 

Deducting ends for cord 184 



1340 

1.15 per cent, size and take-up 



6700 
1340 
1340 



1541.00 part of dividend 

184 ends cord 
1.05 per cent of sizing only 



920 

184 



193.20 other part of dividend 
(61) 



Now for a complete dividend, we add both parts of 
the dividend together, thus : 



1541.00 
193.20 

1734.20 Dividend 

For a divisor for the warp we multiply 840 by the 
number of warp yarn, thus : 





840 
26 


No. 

Divi 
of a 


of warp 




5040 
1680 




DIVIDEND 21840 


sor 


Divisoa-^ 


21840) 1734.20 (.079 
1528 80 






pound. ' 
yard of - 




205 400 
196 560 





Weight of one 



8 840 

Now, as we are to have the same spread in the reed, 
picks, and number of filling in this piece of goods as we 
had in the piece as illustrated in Chapter One and as 
figured out on pages 59 and 60, the weight of filling in one 
yard of this cloth would of course be the same ; therefore 
the weight of this piece of goods would be as follows = 

79 warp 
73 filling 

152)1000(6.57 yards per pound. Weight of goods. 
912 



880 
760 

1200 
1054 

You will notice that on account of the extra ends used 
in the corded work in this piece of goods, it will run prac- 
tically 20 points heavier than the same goods without 
the corded work ; which means that out of every 200 yards 

(62) 



of the goods with the cord you would use about one 
pound more cotton than you would in the same goods 
without the cord work. Counting cotton at 10 cents per 
pound, this would mean about 5/100 (five one hun- 
dredths) of a cent extra cost per yard. 

TO FIGURE THE WEIGHT OF GOODS AFTER THEY ARE 

WOVEN. 

Use yards for dividend, and pounds for a divisor, 
thus: . ^^^^2s ^ 

^°^^^" ^1024)7103(6.93 yards per pound 
6144 



9590 

9216 

3740 
3072 



Suppose you have one piece of goods 4514 yards long that 
weighs 6 pounds and 12 ounces. Multiply the yards, 
4514, by 16 for a dividend, thus: 

45.25 equals 45 1/4 
16 



27150 

452 5 



724.00 dividend 



Now multiply the 6 pounds by 16 and then add to this 
product the other 12 ounces for a divisor, thus : 







16 pounds 
6 






96 






12 ounces 


DIVIDEND 




108 divisor 


OlVlSOR.^ 


108)724.00 
648 






(6.70 yards per pound 




760 






756 





40 

(63) 



CHAPTER THIRTEEN 
TO FIGURE THE WEIGHT, ETC., OF WARPS 



TO FIND THE WEIGHT OF A WARP 

For a dividend multiply the number of ends by the 
number of yards : 

1700 yards 
1600 ends 



1020000 
1700 



2720000 Dividend 

For a divisor, multiply the number of yarn by 840 

840 
26 No. of yarn 



5040 
1680 

21840 Divisor 

21840)2720000(124.54 pounds. Weight of warp 
21840 



53600 
43680 

99200 
87360 



118400 
109200 



92000 
87360 

TO FIND THE LENGTH OF A WARP 

Multiply the weight of the warp by the number of 
yarn and then multiply that product by 840 for a divi- 
dend, thus: 

(64) 



124.54 weij 
26 No. 


of 


of warp 
yarn 


747 24 
2490 8 




3238 04 
840 




12952 160 
259043 2 





2719953.60 Dividend 

For a divisor use the number of ends to the warp as 
follows : 



Ends in warp 1 


600) 2719953.60 ( 
1600 




11199 
9600 




15995 
14400 




15953 
14400 




15536 
14400 




11360 
11200 



warp 



TO FIND THE NUMBER OF YARN OF A WARP 

Multiply the net weight of the warp by 840 for a 
divisor, thus: 

124.52 weight of warp 
840 



498 080 
99616 



10459 6.i& Divisor (here we cancel the decimal) 

For a dividend multiply the length of the warp in 
yards by the total number of ends it contains, thus: 

(65) 



1700 yards long 
1600 ends in warp 



1020000 
1700 



2720000 Dividend 

104596) 2720000 (26 s number of yarn 
209192 



628080 
627576 



(66) 



CHAPTER FOURTEEN 



In order to be able to figure the production of a room 
or section without going through a long string of calcula- 
tions each time to do so, it is a good idea to have your 
loom and cloth constant to figure from, thus making the 
work short and simple. 

To find your loom constants for 10 hours per day or 
60 hours per week, any speed, multiply speed of loom by 6. 

Example- 

Loom speed 160 
6 

960 Constant 

Another example- 

Loom speed 170 
6 



1020 Constant 
TO FIND CONSTANT FOR CLOTH— ANY LENGTH CUTS 

Multiply picks per inch by 36. 
Example'- 

50 picks per inch 
36 

300 . . 

150 

1800 constant for 50 pick goods 

Another example: 

56 pick goods 
36 

336 
168 

2016 constant for 56 pick goods 
(67) 



HOW TO FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF PRODUCTION 

First, multiply all the looms run for the week of any 
one speed by the constant for that speed. 

For all the looms you wish to figure on, of different 
speeds, figure them out as above suggested and add the 
product of each example together for a divisor, thus : 
We will suppose we have a section of 60 looms, 30 of 
which have a speed of 160 pick and the other 30 a speed 
of 170 pick; we will also suppose now that these 60 
looms have run all the week (6 days), so we have- — 

30 looms, speed 160 — run 6 days 
6 

equals 180 looms run one day at 160 pick 

30 looms, speed 170 — run 6 days 
6 

equals 180 looms run one day at 170 pick 

180 looms run at 160 
960 constant 



10800 
1620 



172800 part of divisor in this case 

180 looms run at 170 
1020 constaiit 



3600 
180 



183600 other part of divisor in this, case 

183600 
172800 



356400 Divisor 

For a dividend multiply total yards of each kind of 
goods woven by the constant for that kind of goods; if 
more than one kind of goods is woven, add the product 
of each together; this will give you the dividend, thus: 
We will suppose we wove on this section for the week 
the following: 

(68) 



7200 yards of 50 pick goods 
9000 yards of 56 pick goods 

Note — It makes no difference which looms the goods are 
woven on, just so it comes off the looms included in our calcula- 
tions. 

7200 yards of 50 pick goods 
1800 constant for 50 pick goods 



5760000 
7200 



12960000 Part of dividend 

9000 yards 56 pick goods 

2016 constant, for 56 pick goods 



54000 
9000 
18000 



18144000 the other part of dividend 

18144000 
12960000 



31104000 Dividend 

Now divide the dividend by the divisor, which will 
give a percentage of possible production, thus : 

356400)31104000(87 per cent, production 
2851200 



2592000 

2494800 



While it has taken right much figuring to make this 
rule clear to the inexperienced, yet, if you will study it 
closely you will find after all it is quite simple. The idea, 
of course, is to get out the constants for the different 
speeds of looms you happen to be running, also for the 
different kinds of goods you are running on; and it is 
only a few minutes work to figure the entire production 
for a large room, running on quite a mix-up of different 
speeds and different pick goods. Each section, of course, 

(69) 



is supposed to be worked out on the same basis; if you 
wish to figure them separately, take the average length 
of cuts to get at the yards woven on each section of the 
different kinds of goods. 

The entire calculation can be shortened considerably 
by cutting off the ciphers in the constants ; but in taking 
advantage of this method be sure you cut off the sam^ 
number of ciphers or figures in the loom constants as you 
do in the cloth constants. 

A short way, however, to figure the production for a 
large room, when there are more or less looms of different 
speeds, first get the average speed. 

Rule — Multiply all the looms run of one speed by the speed 
(picks per minute) and add these products together for a divi- 
dend. Then add all the looms run together and take this product 
for a divisor, thus: 

180 multiplied by 160 equals 28800 
180 multiplied by 170 equals 30600 

Divisor 360 Dividend 59400 

360)59400(165 average speed 
360 



2340 
2160 

1800 
1800 

Note — Take any number of looms you may happen to have of 
different speeds and you will get the average speed by following 
the above rule, 

165 average speed of loom 
6 



990 constant for speed of 165 pick 
360 looms run 



59400 
2970 



356400 Divisor 

Note — By this method you will see we get the same divisor 

as we have on page 68, which of course will give same results as 

shown on page 69. 

(70) 



INDEX 



To Find Percentage of Size on Warps 56 

To Find Take-up in Cloth in Width 56 

To Find Take-up in Cloth in Length 56 

To Find Ends Required for Given Width of Cloth 57 

How to Figure Weight of Goods Before Being Woven 58 

How to Figure Weight of Goods Before Being Woven (Cord 

Work) 61 

How to Figure Weight of Goods After Being Woven 63 

How to Figure Weight of Warps 64 

How to Find Length of Warps 64 

How to Find Number of Yarn of a Warp 65 

How to Find Loom Constant 67 

How to Find Cloth Constant 67 

How to Figure the Percentage of Production 68 

How to Find the Average Speed of Looms Running on Dif- 
ferent Speeds 69-70 



(71) 



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